Sunday 22/08/04

After breakfast, partaken in a slightly pokey little kitchen, I head out on that horrendous bike. I head in the general direction of Castlebay, with the vague ideal of climbing Heaval. After walking up the hill from Brevig, I reach the relevant point near the stile and commence the ascent. It's too warm, so I abort and return to the iron steed. Squeeze the water out of my handlebars on my way down that hill into Castlebay and pop into a convenience store which, to my surprise, is open. Today is Sunday, normally strictly observed in the Outer Isles. Buy a few bits and pieces for lunch. Otherwise, Castlebay is deserted. Cycle past St Brenden's hospital, an annex to a nursing home, to Nasg. At that point, I turn left and head up the 1 in 9 incline. On foot obviously. It's not a long stretch of road, and it's not long before I level out at the war memorial. This is always impressive, and I spend a few moments in quiet contemplation. Plummet down the incline to the causeway that links Vatersay to Barra. Big quarry at the northern end of the causeway. Play hide-and-seek with a brownish black cat on the causeway. On Vatersay, I turn left past a busshelter, along the shore of Bagh Chornaig. This road gradually goes uphill. There is a blind summit near the old jetty, where a ferry would dock until the causeway rendered it redundant in 1990. On those steeper stretches, I'm always concerned about cars. The brakes don't work all that well. I ride past the turn-off for Uidhe, past the school. Some folks are busy there. I carry on through the sandy isthmus between Vatersay Bay and West Bay. Pretty landscape with dunes, which offer nice walks. Once in the village, it's looking as desolate and derelict as it did on my last visit, back in 1995. I proceed a bit further than 9 years ago, turning left and finally down a trail below the last houses of the township. Tractor trails lead down through the machair to South Beach, which faces out to the next island, Sandray. By about 2pm, I retrace my steps and tracks as far as Caolas. A fair few folk out walking; the school is now shut up. At Caolas, just before the causeway, I go down the sideroad leading west as far as a gate. Park the bike there and walk across to Traigh Bharlais. This is really pretty, very pleasant. It's out of the chilly wind and in the hot sun. I spend the next THREE hours there. Playing with sand, rocks, water courses - oh how old am I :-). Get well sunburnt in the process. Tear myself out of there at5 pm and return to the bike, which I return to the hirers in Castlebay. See the coach used by the Vatersay Boys parked in Nasg. Head into one of the hotels for my supper. After that, I walk back across to Earsary. By about 8 pm, I pass through Sgallairidh and befriend a black cat and her kittens that playing through some reeds near a watercourse. Further along, a group of teenage girls are actually IN the water. Return to the B&B just after 8. Nice sunset tonight.