Monday 23/08/04

Breakfast was early, at 7.45, as I have been offered a lift with the man of the house who is driving an articulated lorry to Eriskay this morning. It's a huge vehicle, which has to go through an incredible number of gear-changes before it reaches something like a normal cruising speed. We leave at 8.30, and I'm surprised how nimbly the truck negotiates the narrow island roads. We're bang on time for the ferry at Ardmhor. The crossing, in a force 5 wind, is pretty lively. The lorry is shackled to the deck. Forty minutes later, we dock at Eriskay. I thank the driver and jump on the bus that's standing ready at the quayside, waiting to depart for Balivanich. The route goes over the Eriskay causeway to Ludag, Polachar Inn, Garynamonie and Daliburgh. At the Howmore Garage, we wait for a wee while, before continuing north. Have to change buses at Balivanich Airport. As I still have time, I nip inside to grab some sandwiches from a cafeteria. Meanwhile, I have coverage on my mobile for the first time since Friday, so the texts start flooding in. Finally, the bus arrives and I continue my journey north, via Grimsay to North Uist. The 13.30 ferry takes me from Berneray to Harris, under a grey sky. On arrival at Leverburgh, the Hebridean Transport coach is waiting, but we're not going for another half hour. When we do go at 3 pm, the bus turns into a sight-seeing tour, for the benefit of people who are doing a triangular trip with Calmac. We stop on the hill above Northton to allow tourists to take pictures of Northton beach. We stop at one beach, further up the road, for about 20 minutes. Everybody gets off to clamber down to the sandy shore, and walk almost as far as MacGregor's Stone, set on a hill off the far side of the beach. Our attention is drawn to good old Taransay and the Golden Road. Arrive into Tarbert just before 4pm. I decide to settle down for the night here. If I carry on to Stornoway, I may not be on time at the TIC to help me out with a bed. Arrival time there 5 pm. So, I make my way to the McLeod Motel, which offers me B&B for £28. Pokey little room with an iffy telly. WC and showers are shared with about 10 rooms. I go out for a walk up the Scalpay road, as far as the first sign for Urgha, past the junkyard. Retrace my steps into the village and ask for the library, which is located on a school's premises. This turns out to be a new building. Later on, I have a meal in the bar adjacent to the motel. Total lack of atmosphere in the bar,which is in common with the motel. Food acceptable. Have a nice chat with an Aussie lady who is working her way round the UK, waitressing. Her boyfriend does likewise. We compare notes on the Scottish experience.