Saturday 14/08/04

Another glorious day. I head up the railline to Mallaig at 10 o'clock, at no charge. There I visit the TIC to arrange tonight's accommodation. This is done by looking it up yourself and ringing the B&B yourself, admittedly on the TIC's own phone. I end up in Glasnacardoch, at the bottom of the B8008 out of Mallaig. Having accessed the internet that annexes with the TIC, I hobble across to the Glasnacardoch Guesthouse (formerly Hotel), where I'm given a warm welcome. The lady very kindly offers to collect me at Mallaig tonight, on return from the cruise round the Small Isles which I'm planning for today. The lady has a husband and a 7-year old boy (who dominates everybody's life) as well as two rather large dogs. I return to Mallaig at midday, in time for a phonecall which I have to take in the middle of the Spar Supermarket. At 1.30 the Lochnevis sails for the Small Isles with myself on board for the round trip, 8 hours in total. Return planned for 21.30 tonight. There isn't a cloud in the sky, not a wave of swell and everybody in a sunny mood. On the way to Eigg, we see minke whales, and just off the northern tip of the island an orca leaping clean out of the water. Its white markings give its identity away. Arrival at Eigg at 2.45 pm. Some very familiar faces on the pier. Just as we pull away, a sleepy face pokes out of the cabin and asks "Is this Eigg?". Yep, this was Eigg. Italian Renata goes into a flap when she realises she, well, has forgotten to disembark. She was under the impression that she'd have to change into the wee ferryboat. Unfortunately that went out of service back in March, when the new pier was put into formal usage. Renata was to have joined as a volunteer on the island for a week, but as she cannot reach Eigg until Monday she decides to abandon the idea altogether. Sue Hollands, volunteer coordinator on Eigg, wasn't too fussed. I had asked the Carrs at Kildonan to pass the message on to her. Greg Carr, who took the call, fell about laughing on hearing the story. Anyway, on to Muck. I organised a bed for this slightly loopy girl at my own B&B. We continued on our merry way, with me spouting off knowledge regarding the Small Isles. The docking procedure was a bit complicated at Muck, and took a long time. So, it was well after 4 when we finally departed for island n° 3, Rum. By this time, a bank of cloud had started to move up from the south, but it stayed sunny right the way through our sail up the Sound of Rum. Very nice views of Glen Dibidil and the Rum Cuillins, as well as the western extremity of the Sgurr Ridge on Eigg. This slowly moves from Beannan Breaca through Beinn Tighe to Laig Bay. Cleadale looks very pretty under the dark cliffs of Beinn Buidhe. With the time approaching 6 pm, we move round to enter Loch Scresort on the eastern side of Rum. Again, no more faffing about with boats here, the Lochnevis just docks at the pier. As I'm looking straight into the sun, now due west, I'm unable to see Kinloch Castle. I know where it is supposed to be, but it's hidden in amongst the trees. Final island, Canna, is approached round the north coast of Rum, and the sun by this point begins to desert us. At 6.45, we're in the shadows and it's very still. On Canna, the midges are out, making everybody's life a misery. We head back to Mallaig at 7.15. It's now a question of spotting all those whales, there are dozens of them about. Have a Calmac bacon butty for supper. Arrive in Mallaig at 9.20, where the lady from Glasnacardoch is ready to pick up Renata and myself.