Friday 20/08/04

After breakfast I proceed to the TIC in Cromwell Street to book my B&B in Barra, which is my destination for the day. Having gotten something for lunch, I jump on the 10 o'clock bus to Leverburgh, which is the first stage of today's 8 hour journey. After Balallan, an elongated township above the shores of Loch Erisort, the landscape becomes rather wilder. The road finally reaches the shores of Loch Seaforth, before rising dramatically over a 600 ft shoulder of the Clisham. It then drops down equally steeply to Ardhasaig and Tarbert. Beyond the main village in Harris, the landscape turns into the Empire of Stone with which I associate South Harris. The fantastic white beaches follow 9 miles southwest of Tarbert, and they continue right the way down the westcoast, under the backdrop of "Castaway 2000" island Taransay. After Northton / Taobh Tuath the road veers inland to lead to An t-Ob, Leverburgh. It's a very nice, sunny day, and it's worth my while sitting out on deck on board the Loch Portain. This traverses the maze that is the Sound of Harris without difficulty, and drops me off at the new Berneray ferry terminal at 1.20. Have to wait for the minibus to Lochmaddy to turn up. Driver takes me all the way to Carnish, where I change into a Hebridean Coaches bush, which will take me right the way down to Eriskay. Pleasantly chatty character behind the wheel. The route now goes past the airport and the hospital at Balivanich, before crossing the causeway to South Uist at Creagorry. We also pass Linaclete School. The journey across South Uist is not exactly riveting, apart from the odd loch and the chain of hills, up to 2000 ft high to the east. I'm almost relieved to arrive at Daliburgh. From there, the bus carries on to South Boisdale, Garynamonie and Ludag. I've never been here before; the causeway to Eriskay is fairly new. It sports warning signs for otters crossing. Once on Eriskay, it looks like a typical small island community, houses packed tightly together and everybody knowing everybody else, including their business. We arrive at the ferry terminal precisely at the same time as the Barra ferry, the Loch Bhrusda. It's still brilliantly sunny. On arrival at the Ardmhor terminal in Barra, the little bus is waiting. It's a slightly ramshackle affair, which leaves at 5.30 to go round the westside of Barra. It's quite warm behind the windows. Half an hour later, the lady driver drops me off outside Oceanview B&B at Borgh. Mrs Beaton gives me a cordial welcome, and shows me to my room. The spacious living room has a magnificent view of the Atlantic - next stop St Johns, Newfoundland. Mr Beaton is a retired sea-captain who has been right round the world. After a very pleasant chat, I set off down the road to the Isle of Barra Hotel, 1½ miles away, again on the shoreline. A twenty minute walk brought me there. I got into the wrong bar to start with, but finally settle down in the lounge bar for supper. A few families with kids were there, and the kids preferred to be outside rather than in. Don't blame them actually. After dinner, I walk down the road into Castlebay, another mile-and-a-half, as far as the school. The sun is beginning to set, so I turn back. It's a 40 minute hike back to Oceanview, in a very nice, quiet evening. The odd car races by, but otherwise very still. Return to B&B at 9.20 pm.