Thursday 09/09/04

I booked in with the Eunsons for two nights. Leave for the Shapinsay ferry with only a daysack. The boat goes at 10.45 and deposits a fair number of people on the island. I start off by taking a peep through the gates of Balfour Castle, only a hop down the road. Then I set forth down the village main street. Now, Balfour used to have a tidal loo. Everything you did in that wee hoosie would be washed away with the next high tide. Obvious disadvantage being the smell during low tide. Balfour main street is cobbled and lined with low houses, originally for servants at the castle. Outside the village, I catch up with a lady in a bright yellow jumper who is out on a daytrip herself. She is following the tourist guide. At one point, we pass a farm pond full of ducks and geese. At a church, we part company again, the lady goes to have a look inside the roofless building, whilst I carry on east. Opposite the road leading north to Haughland, I walk down to the shore at Haroldsgarth to have a cuppa. Look south across the water to Orkney Mainland. At 11.30 I continue up the road to the north and once again come across the lady in yellow. She is lying in the hay, watching two cows mounting each other. She expresses envy at their activities. I cannot suppress a few ribald comments on my part, and we carry on together. First of all, we go and have a look at the Mor Stein, a standing stone a little way off the road. We carry on north and 1 km further on turn left through farming country. A country road leads further north to Kirkton. There we cross west to the beach at Swartaquoy. It's quite warm and sunny as we head down to the sandy shore, with pebbles further back. Children are playing here and there. Other islands can be seen on the far northern horizon. After a lunchbreak and some paddling in the sea, we encoutner the piece de resistance: the Ouse. This is a tidal inlet with a very tricky crossing. Three wrecked cqars spoil the scenery. Further problems arise because of barbed wire. We head down a farmroad to a shop on the B9058 road at Astley Cottages. Treat ourselves to ice-cream. The road veers downhill towards Balfour. In the near distance, the valley of the Mill Dam Reserve looms up. This is a former loch, which is reduced to a wetland bog. Not much happening there in terms of wildlife. Back in the village, we have another icecream whilst waiting for the 4.45 ferry. The lawn off the pier is very pleasant for a spot of sunbathing. I get along fine with the lady, and ask her out for a meal on return to KW. She is more than happy to accept that. We natter our way to the town. Take her to a chinese place in one of the backstreets, which serves quite an acceptable meal. No, nothing else happens. We just got along fine. She invites me along to North Ronaldsay for the weekend, and who am I to decline? At 10 pm, we go our separate ways.