Friday 17/09/04

After the overnight rain, the world is washed clean. Head out of Whitehall Village for a long walk. Ferry to Kirkwall is not due until 6 pm. Walk down the village main street, which is characterized by a row of neat, white-washed houses. Turn up the hill ant the end, and shortly proceed up a side-road to Whitehall, a large farm. The road leads up to a "high" ridge (all of 43 metres / 145 ft above sea level) along which the island's spinal road (B9062 / B9060) runs south from the airfield. From Clestrain Farmhouse, I continue north up to the junction. It's bright this morning and there is a nice view to the west, to Eday, from here. Retrace my steps and continue south past the watertower. This is a prominent feature on the Stronsay skyline, but not as conspicuous as the windturbines at Rothiesholm. Carry on past the radiomast to the school. Notice a dead sheep behind the hedge lining the road as I approach Ward Hill. As the road descends, a road brances off to the left. Since I want to visit the Vat of Kirbister, I join this road. Overtake a lady carrying bags. Follow the signs for the Vat, through a rundown looking area around Meikle Water. Go up the road towards Odiness (farm), then turn right into the farmroad leading to Kirbuster. A cat flits into a barn at Fingeo, and another disappears amongst a stack of bales. At Kirbuster, there is a track which could do with some upkeep as it heads for the coast. The coastline is punctuated by so-called gloups, of which the Vat of Kirbuster is one. Basically, as a result of erosion, the sea eats into the coastline. The water breaks through a weak point, and creates a cave. When the floor collapses, a gloup is created. This is a hole, through which the sea flows with the tide. When the arch collapses, which is what the Vat will be heading for, the coast is further indented. I proceed past Two Castles, a joined stack, again a product of erosion, and up the side of Burgh Hill. Head southsouthwest towards Lamb Head. A myriad of fences force me to carefully pick my way, but the detailed Explorer map helps a lot. The time being 1pm, I walk straight into the glare of the sun. Finally manage to gain the shoreroad. See the farm buildings at Cleat to my right. Had to choose carefully which fields to traverse - sheep are ok, but I dislike cows and bulls. Proceed west along a rough track until I cross a cattlegrid ½ mile north of Housebay. Sit down for a bit to eat as farm vehicles rumble past me. They are taking in the harvest. At 2.30, I head up the farm track, which goes up past Mid House. Then it turns into the main B9060 road. After 1½ miles, I run across the local store, which I plunder for provisions. It's turning into a very warm afternoon, and I cannot resist the temptation of the beach. So I head down a lane at Ward Hill and end up at the southern end of a short stretch of beach. Have some bother ploughing through the dunes to the tideline. Head north for half a mile, then have to return to the main road. Again lots of fun in the duens, trying not to break a leg in the numerous rabbit holes. I regain the road via a rough track leading up to the radiomast. Take the shortest route down to Whitehall Village and sit down on a picnic bench just behofehand. Again, nice views coming down the brae, with Sanday 6 miles to the north. Nip into the village stores for a drink and drop my daysack off at the hostel. Go for a walk to the east of Whitehall along some dilapidated houses to what looks like a wrecked pier area opposite Papa Stronsay. Pic up rucksack and vacate the hostel at 5 pm, to wait for the ferry round the corner. The hostel manager comes after just as I'm about to board the ferry, asking his key back. He's got it back, in the box on the door - as per procedure. Pleasant little place, is Stronsay, but the hostel was a definite turn-off. Return to Kirkwall at 7.40, after being overtaken by a jetskier outside Kirkwall harbour