Friday 24/09/04

Went on another visit to Papa Westray today. Left on the ferry at 12.30, which was advertised as going to Papay. However, due to the inclement conditions out at sea, the boat would only go as far as Westray. I insissted I was going to Papay, come hell or high water. So off we went, through a fairly lively crossing north to Rapness. This is my third trip to Westray, but now I recognise the islands I pass on the voyage. Arrive at Rapness, and am rapidly transferred to Pierowall by the now-familiar minibus. The Golden Mariana crew are not entirely happy setting forth in the force 6 wind we've got going today, but theydo go for it. Jump off at Papay, where a nurse is waiting to go back to Westray. She carries a sharps box. I head off down the road for a few hundred yards, then go down onto the beach at the head of Bay of Moclett. At the end of the beach, I climb up to the meadows and have to run the gauntlet of a herd of cows. I dislike cows. Walk round the cape of Vestness and head north. Come across the Ministers Flag - flag as in flagstone. At one time, the minister (of the church) was not allowed on the island. However, the island's tidal area is Crown property - when not covered by water. So, there is this large slab of stone where the minister would come ashore at low tide to preach to the faithful. Pass on the edge of the cliffs below the farms of Rendall to Knap of Howar. This is a pre-historic site, an excavated village from the Stone Age on the coast at Holland. Nearly a mile further north, I reach St Boniface Church, where I have to stop my northward movement. After another look inside, I return to the main road. Which I cannot use, because a herd of cows is being moved along it at low speed. I cut through the fields to the foreshore at Mayback, on the eastern side of Papay. Head down to the pier, then up the hill past Berstane and along the main road. At 15.50, I watch the plane take off from Papay and land on Westray 90 seconds later. This is the shortest scheduled airservice in the world, across only 2 miles. On arrival back at Moclett, I amble down to a large loch, then sit on the beach. Golden Mariana leaves at 5, to deliver me at Pierowall at 5.23. After the busride, the ferry takes me back to Kirkwall. The weather did turn sunny but not warm in the end. Return to town at 8 pm, in gathering darkness. Do shopping and am back in the hostel at 9.