Friday 29/10/04

Left Sheena's at 10 o'clock, not quite sure what I'd be doing today. The preceding evening had been marked by people coming in late from the 23.30 train, who were going on to Knoydart in the morning. Another gentleman, dressed as a performing musician (classical) was getting on the 10.30 train to Glasgow. I decided to get on the same train, but to go only as far as Fort William. On arrival there, at 11.50, I proceeded to Nevisport. No rucksacks that took my fancy, or fitted my particular anatomy of shoulders. Put one on and went 'ouch' straightaway. Pity. Ellis Brigham, across the way, had lots of rucksacks, but none jumped off the wall at me. So, went into town, looking at outdoor shops, but they made me look at them with a warped smile. Dived into Tesco's for the shopping, then had the temerity to take a taxi to the Youth Hostel, which is 2.5 miles away in Glen Nevis. £4.70 and 10 minutes later, it delivered me there, and yes, there was space. As per normal, I didn't book anything in advance. The only thing I had booked in advance in recent days were Sheena's before going to Rum and Kinloch Castle. Had to hobble back into town for a disposable camera, then proceeded to make my supper. Chili and peaches.

Thursday 28/10/04

The drizzly weather matched my mood on departure. Sort of mooched around the castle and the village until it was time for the guided tour of the castle at 12.30. This was an eye-opener, particularly with the background info. The abiding images will be the orchestrion, the monkey-eating eagle and (of course) the Steinway. Had to dash to the ferry after the tour, and the Ullin Staffa left at 2.20. One child nearly got run over by a lorry, as it was about to reverse onto the freight ferry Raasay. Plenty of kids about on the castle tour as well. The return journey to the mainland was boring, bumpy and long. I once again subjected myself to Sheena's, and had dinner in the Clachain Inn. Knew this joint from years ago, and it was recently done up. Only to be torched days before its opening.

Wednesday 27/10/04

I have decided to dub Kinloch Castle: Jamaica Inn. It's on Rum (yep) and it's a hostelry. C?

Set off at 9.30 for Guirdil in moderate rainfall. After 50 minutes I reached Malcolm's Bridge under Ard Nev and branched off in the general direction of Fionchra, the green hill. The path was boggy and some of the streams difficult to cross. Gaining altitude all the way, I found myself under Fionchra at 11.30 and began the sweeping curve up to the pass under Orval. Reached the top, at altitude 375m (1,250 ft) at midday and could see the Long Loch and the summits of the Rum Cuillins. The rain had stopped at 11am. The cold easterly still continued though. On the far side of the pass was the rocky face of Orval, the green mass of Bloodstone Hill (380m) and Canna framed between Bloodstone and Fionchra. Went down into the valley, not losing much altitude at first. It was fairly easy, mainly level grassland. The descent towards Guirdil did get steeper during the 40 minutes down, but finally stopped on a ridge, 11 metres above Guirdil Bothy and the beach. The ruins of the settlement and the lazybeds were still perfectly plain to see, even 180 years after they had been cleared of people. Only the stags now roam here, and the odd hiker. Went into the bothy and promptly wrecked the opening mechanism of the door to the dorm. Set off to Glen Shellesder at 1.20, but on arrival there, half an hour later, got into big problems with the burn. This river was deep, fast, broad and bereft of suitable crossingplaces. It was a simple case of taking boots and socks off and wading across. Excruciatingly cold once you're across, during the crossing you have to watch the stones on the bottom; they're either sharp or slippery. Or both. And it gets ever so cold in there... Finally continued on my way at 2.40, for a most unpleasant and uninspiring bogslog. Met some stalkers who weren't having fun either. Eventually sloshed my way down the hill to Kilmory Glen at 4.40, to reach Kinloch an hour later. In the shop it was not lively. Joined the other guests for dinner at 7pm, which was very good. Tom Keane showed me round some of the decorative rooms in the castle and allowed me a tinkle on the Steinway, 100 years old and still in tune - was done 3 weeks before.

Tuesday 26/10/04

Woke up to the sound of rain. How odd. Annual rainfall total at Kinloch 2,500 mm, 100 inches. London, for the sake of comparison, has 800 mm (32"). Looked out of topfloor window at 8.30 to see the top of a waterspout. By the time I got my camera out it had faded. After breakfast and the preparations for lunch, I set out for Harris at 9.45. This involves an 8 mile road walk. As mentioned before, the roads on Rum are atrocious. First you go to the Kilmory turn, then past Salisbury's dam. This is a failed attempt by the then owner Lord Salisbury to dam the waters of Kinloch River in 1876. When the dam broke, it caused a massive flood in Kinloch Glen. In the distance to the west Fionchra and Orval rear up, the former wreathed by a rainbow. Ard Nev towers over the road just to the west. Barkeval stands to the east, followed by Glen Harris. Crowned by - clouds. In clear weather there would be the Rum Cuillins, with tops rising to 823 m, 2864 ft. Today's weather is mildly showery. See them rolling past all around, but only get 1 or 2 myself. Beautiful view over Harris to Coll and Tiree, and the Treshnish Isles as you descend. The roads deteriorates from atrocious to abominable but I manage to blast along at a steady 4 kph (2.5 mph). Find a jeep, surrounded by mating bovines, containing Tom Keane and another chap surveying the road. Tom is to assess the amount of money needed to improve amenities on Rum. It will cost millions to upgrade the road. In the days of yore, a car was raced from Kinloch to Harris in 8 minutes... Nowadays it takes more like 60 minutes. Reached Harris at 1pm. Thoughts of continuing to Papadil are thwarted by distance, terrain and diminishing daylight hours. Looked at the mausoleum. The western lintel is in danger of collapse, but a company has been found to amend this. The only thing is, they'll have to helicopter their gear to Harris, because of the state of the road. Brief moment of silence to remember those at rest here. The three members of the Bullough family who built Kinloch Castle. Gorgeous location. Temperature is 10C, according to thermometer outside the non-bothy. It's actually the HQ for the goat project. Found the goats alright, long-horned ones. Back up that bloody hill again, then plain sailing all the way to the junction. Found the path to Bloodstone Hill at Malcolm's Bridge. Reached the Kilmory fork at 4pm, and decided I had time in hand to go there. Not quite, as it turned out. The road there was extremely wet, at times I needed a boat. Met the treehuggers, who recommended I go into the first wood along the road to view the waterfall. Wood is wild, wet and beautiful. Saw plenty of deer, in between dodging puddles. Stopped at 5pm, about 3/4 mile short of the beach. Sunset is at 6, and I still have to walk a mere 6-7 km back to Kinloch. This took me the anticipated 90 minutes, and I just beat the darkness to it. Although I had planned a break at the roadfork, I found myself in a stride and decided to press on. The moon rose in front of me and gleamed beautifully on the Kinloch River, when I reached there at 6.30. It was dark. Dived into the shop, which was full of drinkers. Had a coke, then bought me baked beans & fruit cocktail stand-by for supper. Total distance walked today: 34 km (21 miles) a new record.

Monday 25/10/04

After a quick breakfast of sandwiches and tea went off to the Co-op for a 3 day foodshop. More than 10 quid's worth in 3 bags. At 9.30 to Calmac for the ticket and embarkation. One lady wanted to go to Skye but had to be told 4 times over that there was NO sailing at 10am because of the winter schedule. Two boats lay ready for the Small Isles. The Raasay, the freightboat and the Staffa Ullin, well known from my previous return from Eigg. The latter was setting off first, heading for Eigg with 24 people on board, including my host from Eigg. The Raasay cast off at 10.30, carrying a posh car belonging to a post-office inspector, and some cargo for Eigg and Rum. And the passengers for Rum. These included 3 tree-experts who were going to look at all the forests (erm which ones?) on Rum and at what grows on the trees. Another chap was a Raasay resident who had seen me flapping about on various ferries around Skye during the past few weeks that I'd been in the area. Left Mallaig at 10.30 to reach Eigg 90 minutes later. The crossing was choppy. Went ashore for a wee minute at Eigg, to find the teashop jampacked, the craftshop closed and the store having nothing I particularly desired. Spoke briefly to Colin Carr at the pierhead, before being called ashore by the crew of the Raasay. The journey to Rum was sunny, but a lot of spray came over. Reached the island at 1.30pm. Left bags on trailer to be taken down to the castle. Walked down a track paved with gravel, through a wooded avenue. Past the White House, the estate office. Went inside with the treehuggers, then on to the castle. Nothing was ready, had to wait around for a bit. Finally, we were allocated rooms, me being in number 4, on the top floor. The castle defies description in these pages, check out www.kcfa.org.uk. Or have a look yourself, as from Easter 2005. The castle closes at the end of this week. Went for a walk at 3.30 up Kinloch Glen just beyond the roadfork for Kilmory / Harris. The road is atrocious. You can see Ard Nev and Orval in the southwest, the path to Guirdil over the hills. There is this gate along the way that you have to pass through, which is difficult if you're fat. I'm not, but can imagine the more corpulent having to open the roadgate. Cooked my own dinner (cauliflower and tatties) at 7pm. Had great fun using up all the bits and pieces left behind by previous guests. Chatted to Tom Keane from Kinloch CastleFriends Association, the body looking after the upkeep of the place.

Sunday 24/10/04

Got up at 9 and went out for a walk at 10. Headed out to Glasnacardoch. The weather was grey and cold, with the last vestiges of brightness fast disappearing to the west. The rain finally caught up with me at midday, and lasted for 2 1/2 hours. Walked to Loch Nostarie and a little beyond. It is very wet on the ground. Had wanted to go to Loch Eireagoraidh, but met the man with the hammer. The wind was a bitingly cold easterly. Returned to Mallaig at 3pm. Found I needed new waterproof trousers and bought them in a local store. Went for a lasagna at the Marine Hotel at 6.30.

Saturday 23/10/04

In the morning, Amy and me went on a brief stroll towards the Quiraing, then jumped on the 13.23 bus to Portree. We drank a glass of pretty foul beer (McNab, avoid it), then I sent Amy on her bus to Inverness, and I went on my coach to Armadale. Ran into her bus again just outside Sligachan where it had broken down. Gearbox had crashed and it would not budge an inch. There was also a fire. Nice and sunny at Broadford. After waiting for 30 minutes at Armadale, Coruisk took me over the water to Mallaig. At Sheena's Backpackers, with which I wasn't really impressed. Noisy, and a lack of space. Ok, it'll do. Had dinner at the Marine Hotel. There was a tremendous racket in the street outside after midnight, drunken yobs. The police silenced them at 2 am