Wednesday 27/10/04

I have decided to dub Kinloch Castle: Jamaica Inn. It's on Rum (yep) and it's a hostelry. C?

Set off at 9.30 for Guirdil in moderate rainfall. After 50 minutes I reached Malcolm's Bridge under Ard Nev and branched off in the general direction of Fionchra, the green hill. The path was boggy and some of the streams difficult to cross. Gaining altitude all the way, I found myself under Fionchra at 11.30 and began the sweeping curve up to the pass under Orval. Reached the top, at altitude 375m (1,250 ft) at midday and could see the Long Loch and the summits of the Rum Cuillins. The rain had stopped at 11am. The cold easterly still continued though. On the far side of the pass was the rocky face of Orval, the green mass of Bloodstone Hill (380m) and Canna framed between Bloodstone and Fionchra. Went down into the valley, not losing much altitude at first. It was fairly easy, mainly level grassland. The descent towards Guirdil did get steeper during the 40 minutes down, but finally stopped on a ridge, 11 metres above Guirdil Bothy and the beach. The ruins of the settlement and the lazybeds were still perfectly plain to see, even 180 years after they had been cleared of people. Only the stags now roam here, and the odd hiker. Went into the bothy and promptly wrecked the opening mechanism of the door to the dorm. Set off to Glen Shellesder at 1.20, but on arrival there, half an hour later, got into big problems with the burn. This river was deep, fast, broad and bereft of suitable crossingplaces. It was a simple case of taking boots and socks off and wading across. Excruciatingly cold once you're across, during the crossing you have to watch the stones on the bottom; they're either sharp or slippery. Or both. And it gets ever so cold in there... Finally continued on my way at 2.40, for a most unpleasant and uninspiring bogslog. Met some stalkers who weren't having fun either. Eventually sloshed my way down the hill to Kilmory Glen at 4.40, to reach Kinloch an hour later. In the shop it was not lively. Joined the other guests for dinner at 7pm, which was very good. Tom Keane showed me round some of the decorative rooms in the castle and allowed me a tinkle on the Steinway, 100 years old and still in tune - was done 3 weeks before.