Monday 25/10/04

After a quick breakfast of sandwiches and tea went off to the Co-op for a 3 day foodshop. More than 10 quid's worth in 3 bags. At 9.30 to Calmac for the ticket and embarkation. One lady wanted to go to Skye but had to be told 4 times over that there was NO sailing at 10am because of the winter schedule. Two boats lay ready for the Small Isles. The Raasay, the freightboat and the Staffa Ullin, well known from my previous return from Eigg. The latter was setting off first, heading for Eigg with 24 people on board, including my host from Eigg. The Raasay cast off at 10.30, carrying a posh car belonging to a post-office inspector, and some cargo for Eigg and Rum. And the passengers for Rum. These included 3 tree-experts who were going to look at all the forests (erm which ones?) on Rum and at what grows on the trees. Another chap was a Raasay resident who had seen me flapping about on various ferries around Skye during the past few weeks that I'd been in the area. Left Mallaig at 10.30 to reach Eigg 90 minutes later. The crossing was choppy. Went ashore for a wee minute at Eigg, to find the teashop jampacked, the craftshop closed and the store having nothing I particularly desired. Spoke briefly to Colin Carr at the pierhead, before being called ashore by the crew of the Raasay. The journey to Rum was sunny, but a lot of spray came over. Reached the island at 1.30pm. Left bags on trailer to be taken down to the castle. Walked down a track paved with gravel, through a wooded avenue. Past the White House, the estate office. Went inside with the treehuggers, then on to the castle. Nothing was ready, had to wait around for a bit. Finally, we were allocated rooms, me being in number 4, on the top floor. The castle defies description in these pages, check out www.kcfa.org.uk. Or have a look yourself, as from Easter 2005. The castle closes at the end of this week. Went for a walk at 3.30 up Kinloch Glen just beyond the roadfork for Kilmory / Harris. The road is atrocious. You can see Ard Nev and Orval in the southwest, the path to Guirdil over the hills. There is this gate along the way that you have to pass through, which is difficult if you're fat. I'm not, but can imagine the more corpulent having to open the roadgate. Cooked my own dinner (cauliflower and tatties) at 7pm. Had great fun using up all the bits and pieces left behind by previous guests. Chatted to Tom Keane from Kinloch CastleFriends Association, the body looking after the upkeep of the place.